Jan 05 2008

Big in Sydney, rainy in CA

Published by at 11:45 am under Surf reports

Hello Friends,

Got into LA this morning just ahead of a very big and very rainy storm system. As we drove up the coast, the skies got darker and the occasional spit of rain at Malibu gave way to a steady downpour as we went by Rincon (ultra junky & waist high). Could barely make out the beach on the way up, but it looked small, cold and windblown. I was very, very keen to try and get in so that I could say I’d surfed both sides of the pond on the same day, but conditions are so diabolical that it plainly wasn’t going to happen. Bummer.

(To put it in perspective, since July Santa Barbara has had about 75mm of rain. But, since I arrived here about three hours ago, it’s had over 25mm – and it’s supposed to keep bucketing along overnight with further showers through Weds.)

The first thing I did when I got online again here was to check RealSurf to see what the situation is like in Sydney. From the look of the MHL buoy the east swell peaked at around 4 metres just on high tide this morning. Given that it’s averaging about 10 seconds apart, I’m not surprised to read that it’s whiteout time. Bet a bit of sand has been carved away from the Wetherill Street zone at far south Narrabeen. I doubt that the 10-20 kts of SE wind blowing as I write this around noon Sydney time on Saturday, is helping much. I wonder if there was much happening in the inner harbour… I’d have guessed there’d be a few into the rideable range at Nielsen Park.

Fascinating to see that the call for tomorrow in Sydney is a bit smaller swell (though not dramatically so) and light winds in the morning, swinging NE in the afternoon. According to the models, the swell should continue to fade on Monday, but not to drop into the flat range for the remainder of next week… far out!

Meanwhile, here in unsunny California it looks as though waves could be getting into the 10-foot range thanks to a pulse of long period WNW swell. So who knows, maybe I’ll have some tales to tell… Should still be some energy around for Sunday, but then it looks to be heading toward mid-week flatness ahead of another weak pulse into the surfable range toward Friday.

Have yourself a top old day – wherever you may be.

Manhattan Beach, LA

Manhattan Beach about 0930, Friday 4 January

Rainy afternoon heading into Santa Barbara

On the freeway in Santa Barbara, afternoon Friday 4 Jan 08

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