Jan 08 2008

Published by at 4:34 am under Surf reports

Hello Friends,

It would seem that Sydney and So Cal surfers are both looking at the same thing: fading swell.

In Sydney the MHL buoy was showing 8 sec period, 1.5 metre south swell just before daybreak. In terms of size, that’s not wildly dissimilar to yesterday morning, but then it was coming more from the east. Since there were little waves around then, my guess is that there’ll probably be a few mildly diverting little curls to be found at south swell magnets. I’d be thinking fish or mal though.

The Bureau says Sydney will see clearing skies through the day and winds from S-SE at 10-15kts.

Pulling up the latest forecast info… and it looks as though Sydneysiders are looking at a week of fairly marginal conditions. With luck it won’t go quite flat, but the indications are that it will come close on Weds-Thrs. There could be a small uptick of a foot or two come Friday afternoon, but that will drift back into the marginal range for the weekend (on current reckoning).

The good news is that the very long range models are presently showing some interesting developments for this time next week as a low spreads out a reasonable east fetch from NE of NZ and as another big low blobs up into the southern Tasman. If either of those systems (or both!) play the right way, there could be another dose of useful energy for the entire east coast toward the middle of next week. The usual caveats apply, so stay tuned while we keep an eye on things over coming days.

California Diary

Well, got waves again. This time under very dark and rainy conditions at Rincon. The Queen of the Coast wasn’t all time, but even when it’s less than its best, it can be very good. The WNW swell that has been pretty sluggish but okay size was okay size and not very sluggish at all at Rincon. It was a Sunday, so despite the appalling weather, there were a good 100 or so in the water. However, it is a very long set up (think Crescent or the Alley) and it generally breaks up into four fairly distinct sections. I paddled out at Rivermouth which is right near the top of the point (indicators is another 150 metres up from there).

Water was an unappetising greyish-brown soup and the tide was low (a good thing!). Water temp is around 14 (Vicco’s would shrug but a Sydneysider like me is cringing) so you really pay attention on the first duck dive. Waves were breaking pretty hard and the standard of surfing (quite good) combined with endlessly makeable walls in the head high to overhead range, made catching one something of a challenge for your ancient correspondent.

I set myself the modest goal of extracting a minimum of a wave from the session but with an aspiration of four waves. Dial your expectations to a reasonable level and you can have a sense of satisfaction in the most ordinary circumstances.

Anyway, first wave was not much more than two turns before getting picked off. I had traded makeability for fewer people by moving down from rivermouth to the no person’s zone above the cove. Waves there are sometimes makeable through, but mostly not. Second wave had a good 8 foot of face on it and for a few seconds I thought I’d get down the line, but no sooner had I pulled into the pocket, when whammo… Don’s gone.

In the end I caught a few in the cove, the last of which was really very good. Maybe head high, running down to waist high but zippering along in eminently rippable fashion for over a hundred metres across the inside. Happy camper!

Hope you have yourself a top old day and maybe check back later because I’ll post pictures if I get waves today… (it’s sunny and offshore… so here’s hoping)

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