Jan 09 2008

Published by at 6:05 am under Surf reports

Bobby Martinez at the Pit

Hello Friends,

Looking less than inspiring for Sydney surfers this morning. The MHL buoy is showing  pretty much the same as it did yesterday, but the period’s up a touch and the peak size is down a touch. At only 8 sec apart on average, we are talking gutless windswell for the most part. Direction is straight south, so places facing into that should be offering the best quality… such as it is. Not flat, but not great either.

Wind is lightly out of the SE and therefore I’d expect it to be junking surface conditions up this morning. It supposed to weaken this afternoon, but to stay onshore through the day.

Tomorrow should be NE’ly and it doesn’t look like there’s any prospect of an improvement to the swell situation.

However… the long range models are looking even more promising than yesterday. It seems that Huey has plans to put lots of balls into play at the same time this weekend. The consequences could be another sustained pulse of good size NE swell from around Sunday afternoon through about Tuesday (and beyond).

California diary

Huge high tides are swamping most spots in the morning, but it seems as though we still have some small stuff around. I drove down to the nearest beach to see if I could get a shot for you. The place is called Arroyo Burro beach by the gazetter, but local surfers know it as the Pit. Like name, like nature really, it isn’t much of a wave. Just weak beachy mostly. This morning it was dead glassy and waist high with the odd bigger one. I snapped a few pictures and when I got home and started looking at them, I realised I’d managed to catch Bobby Martinez finishing up a session. Like Tom Curren, he’s a Santa Barbara boy, but who woulda thought he’d be at the Pit.

I’m gonna go surf hunting again today, so if I turn up anything of interest, I’ll put up another “postcard” or two for ya.

Have yourself a top old day!

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